Thanks for the link. That's led to a bit of progress.
640x480 mode is an odd mixture of good and bad. I bought Tweaks2k2 which lets me modify the system font but that seems to have no effect on things like the today screen (which is totally standard, and almost needs a magnifying glass in 640x480 to read it). It's still far from ideal in IE because even "largest" font is horribly small.
Unfortunately Netfront can't get through my firewall here at work (although IE can

) so I'll have to wait till I get home to try it.