Newest ripboard landscape layout. I moved the switch-to-Portrait button to the upper left corner, and placed Shift under Enter. Shift is closer to the middle of the screen now, and should be more convenient for use with both the numpad and alpha characters:
I have the dash l-mount phone holder and it works quite well with my sena case on my x30. We also have a couple magnetic mounts on our phones. A magnet sticks to the dash wherever you want and then a little metal oval (you get two of those) sticks onto the back of your phone. I have an e815 and it still fits in the belt clip. I'd imagine it's strong enough for an axim, but I haven't tried it.
By the way I saw the thread "cheap axim car holder <$10" and that's what reminded me of this..
__________________ Motivation. If a pretty poster and a cute saying are all it takes to motivate you, you probably have a very easy job. The kind robots wil be doing soon.
New Greasemonkey script for Firefox written by yours truly will put up to 200 threads on your search page!
Ever want to view more than the default 25 threads when you click the View New Posts or Today's Posts buttons? This script will allow you to view up to 200 per page. That's not a limit set in the script, but by the engine. Sure, you can put 300 instead of 200, but the max. is 200.
Paste this into your a new Greasemonkey user script or download the script itself below:
Code:
// ==UserScript==
// @name Forum Long List
// Author: "PocketBrain" Karl J. Knippel
// @namespace http://www.mobilitysite.com/
// @description Make Search lists on forums larger than the default.
// @include http://www.mobilitysite.com/forums/search.php?*
// @include http://www.aximsite.com/boards/search.php?*
// just add more to the include list as they become usable.
// ==/UserScript==
// This is cyclic. As soon as the new URL is posted, it acts
// again to append the '&pp=200' term again, repeatedly.
// window.location.href = window.location.href + ('&pp=200')
// if !(window.location.href.match(/pp=\?/)) {
// window.location.href = window.location.href + ('&pp=200')
// }
// This one works, but will become cyclic if there are more than
// 200 listings in the search.
// if (document.body.textContent.match('Page 1 of')) {
// window.location.href = window.location.href + ('&pp=200')
// }
// This one works! Yayyyy!!!
// Pseudocode:
// If the URL doesn't have "pp=" in it, add "&pp=200" to the end and reload the page.
var pagestg = 'pp=';
if (!(window.location.href.match(pagestg))) {
window.location.href = window.location.href + ('&pp=200')
}
You can see the evolution and some evidence of my chaotic mind; I left limited-working or non-working versions of the script in place. As it is, it's quite small! Note that I included MobilitySite too. You can add any website that the "&pp=" trick works with.
Don't forget to remove the .txt extension from the download once you have it on your desktop. Drag it over to your Firefox Browser. Get Greasemonkey if you don't have it already.
Get your lobsters instantly at instant lobsters online.
__________________ Motivation. If a pretty poster and a cute saying are all it takes to motivate you, you probably have a very easy job. The kind robots wil be doing soon.
__________________ pencil and paper: n.An archaic information storage and transmission device that works by depositing smears of graphite on bleached wood pulp. More recent developments in paper-based technology include improved ‘write-once’ update devices which use tiny rolling heads similar to mouse balls to deposit colored pigment.
Cravaus has given us this great tip on how to map your external keyboard to macros, using PenCommander, nScriptM, or MortScript Macros. This way, your keyboard will behave more like that on a PC (you can map to copy, paste, cut., etc).
NEWMake a custom "RAM"-style mount. PCG has fashioned his own ball-and-socket mount, using parts from RAM and his Seidio G4500S mount, for optimum placement and flexibility. Nice work.
My Holux GR-213 GPS unit sat on my dashboard, in the Florida heat, without a sunshade for a couple of days, plugged in so the battery was charging.
Well, this was bad for the battery, and it swelled up, losing over half of its capacity as well.
I had a cell phone that a friend gave me so that I could use the defunct AT&T SIM card to unlock my wife's SMT5600, which had a battery. I got the idea to check to see if the batteries had compatible contacts. They did.
The cell phone's battery was larger in capacity, and I had to kind of jam it in a little, but it worked. I strapped it down with some rubber bands for awhile, until I found just the right piece of plastic blister pack that came with a water filter that I bought for my refrigerator. You can see the channels built-into the plastic, to keep it from flexing, lined up with the red arrows. I have already cut out the desired piece on the left, as shown.
I cut off a bit of that, with a channel it it just the right size, the same size as the battery, poked a couple holes in it, and screwed it into place. It works perfectly.
Note: I do not recommend that anybody else do this. It is potentially unsafe. Only I get to do stuff like this. Now go back to your desk job .
I just thought I would blog this one here. Some of you have the BT mouse with your PDAs, correct?
Wayyyyy back in 2003, I purchased a MicroSoft Wireless Desktop for Bluetooth Bundle, consisting of the keyboard and mouse. When SP2 came for XP, it actually became useful (when the batteries died on the keyboard with SP1, you had to completely uninstall the mouse drivers and all bluetooth support to get it to work again!). The only real deficiency I could see with the mouse was the fact that it ate batteries on a weekly basis. I purchased rechargeable NiMH batteries for the thing, but still they died from time to time, and so I had to devise a way to recharge those batteries while still in the the mouse itself.
So, here it is, in brief.
Materials and supplies:
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Soldering iron
Solder
Flux
Wire
X-acto knife
glue
hot glue
Aluminum foil
Cellophane tape
Double-stick Cellophane tape
Paper-clad project board
Leaf-spring contacts
USB cable
resistors
LED
Pencil
First, cut two rectangles off of the project board, one larger than the other. Trace around the bottom of the mouse on the smaller of the two and cut out that shape with the knife. Then, glue the two together to form the basic dock. The mouse will fit into the cutout. (see the dock next to the mouse in figure 1)
Figure 1
Next, you prepare the mouse. The electrical contacts are inside, so you want to bring them outside of the mouse itself. It's designed to slide along your desktop, so you have to get some really flat contacts. Aluminum foil is ideal for that. Cut the foil into several thin strips (start with a 12" by 1/4" strip and cut that down). Remove the battery cover and batteries and place a strip behind each of the two battery contacts (not the battery-battery connector, but the ones that power the mouse). Lay them parallel and cut them flush with the edge of the battery cover slot. Hold them in place with double-stick cellophane tape. Then, attach two strips to the battery cover itself, parallel, so that they contact the two pieces of foil beneath as well as have some exposure on the outside. Use regular cellophane tape on both sides to hold these in place. (See figure 2 with the cover on and 3 with the cover off)
Figure 2
Figure 3
Next up, the base needs to be finished. I used a couple of leaf-spring contacts from an old battery charger for my contacts. Measure the position of the contacts on your mouse by parking the mouse in the base,then tilting it up and mark this position carefully with a pencil. Use the Xacto blade to cut the holes here. Cut a couple of shallow channels in the back where the leaf spring will be, to give the contacts some range of motion. Solder some 2" (5 cm) wire to each of the contacts, then hot glue the leaf spring contacts to the back of the base, ensuring they can move at the contact end.
Now it's time to make the circuit. I used an old USB-USB cable so I could draw some power from the computer or another similar 5V USB source. Cut the cable to an appropriate length (that's up to you; I cut it to about 14 inches) and pull out the GND and +5V wires, strip their ends. The other two wires are not used. The GND wire connects directly to the negative contact (determine this using a DMM or just your eyes). The positive wire connects through your little current-limiter circuit to the positive contact. You need the circuit since you are charging from 5VDC to a battery pack that will be approx. 2.7V - 2.8V fully charged. For my circuit, I used about 150 ohms on the bypass, and 150 ohms on the LED leg (these two in parallel).
Figure 4
I used an LED so that you can see when you have a good connection, and it is charging!
Figure 5, the working charger.
Some notes:
You may want to forgo the bypass resistor in favor of an LED-diode-resistor in parallel with a LED flasher-resistor circuit. The resistor in series with the diode would be small, since the diode (or two) would be dropping a certain voltage along with the LED, so the resistor would need to limit less. The extra voltage-drop would prevent overcharging of the battery pack: 5V - 1.7V(LED) - 0.7V(diode) = 2.6V(battery). A fully topped-off NiMH is around 1.4V per cell. NiMH batteries do better with a pulsed current to maintain full charge than they do with a steady trickle, hence the LED flasher, which actually does pulse current. At/near full charge, the double-diode leg would drop its current to the microamps range.
A better solution than this (disclaimer, I have an hx4700 so I have a different worry altogether) would be to go to Ace Hardware or Home Depot and get a can of Plasti-Dip, in a color of your choosing, and then dab just a wee smidge onto the center button. You can add extra layers to beef it up, and it should be more durable when it cures than mere electrical tape. But, OMG, it's a few bucks more!
Follow Us
RSS Feed
Follow on Twitter
Facebook
YouTube
NEW
Elite Member
