Also, I forgot to ask, what makes you think that you have a leak?........How old is the unit? Package unit or split?
Pretty simple - it stopped working and the pressure dropped from 200/60 to 150/28 over the winter. It's a split system, about 2 years old. I think the leak is at a flare connection at the TXV when the installer replaced the orifice tube in order to match the capacity.
So far, my plan is to call Enviro-Safe tomorrow and ask if any modifications are needed to use their ES-22a. If no modifications are needed or if they're very minor, I'll go with the ES-22a. Otherwise, I'll go with the regular R22, although I would first have to get an EPA certification.
Quote:
BTW, did you mean to consider putting a capacitor across the contact? That might do a better job of clamping the surge.
You can't just put a capacitor alone across a relay. It would cause a pulse of very high current through the relay when it closes and that would wear out the contacts very fast. A "snubber", which is a capacitor with a series resistor, is used instead. Other surge protection devices can also be used.
The resistor across the relay (which would be something like 10K ohms at 25w) simply keeps the relay warm when it's off. This helps keep moisture off the contacts.
Of course, I'll ask if the local A/C supply stores sell sealed or solid state relays.
And exactly how much longer will the compressor last if I install a crankcase heater? How much is a crankcase heater in general?
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
Just a simple way to tell, have you tried a soap solution? It probably is a small leak, but a soap solution may reveal how big it is, and where it is. You can get a sniffer on ebay for less and $100. That would be the definitive answer.
Crankcase heater-if your unit is a heat pump, I would think that the unit would have come with one. Couldn't tell you the price on one, but I would think they are less than $20. I can ask around, what is the tonnage of the unit?
It's 4 ton. Not a heat pump (well, technically it is, but only one direction), so there is no crankcase heater installed. However, it is listed as an optional component on the schematic.
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
Also, if you don't have a heat pump you shouldn't need a crankcase heater. how cold is it outside when you run your unit?
The single large can is about $35 more than the 12 small cans, but contains twice as much. Since I can use it in other applications later on, I decided on the big one. (And yes, "other applications" will soon include a chiller to cool computer equipment and maybe a reduced-pressure water distiller.)
I have heard that a crankcase heater will help even A/C-only units because the oil is thick when the compressor first starts, which strains the oil pump inside. If a crankcase heater does indeed cost very little, then I think it will easily pay for itself several times over in extending the lifetime of the unit.
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
I have done plenty of brazing for my CPU cooler project.
I think the leak is at a flare connection at the TXV when the installer replaced the orifice tube in order to match the capacity.
Does the old detector work with the new HFCs?
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
I checked Johnstone and they only sell the open relays, no enclosed or solid state.
Is a power resistor in parallel with the contacts going to help? Or should I just really oversize the new relay?
I would like to know just how many years of service will a crankcase heater add. And exactly how much are they? (For some reason, Johnstone only sells certain parts to repair shops.)
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
I just opened the evaporator enclosure and I found something very strange. The expansion valve does not have a sensing bulb. Does that mean it's a SEV (Spring Expansion Valve) instead of a TXV? How do they compare to TXVs?
I have not found the exact location of the leak but shining the UV light into the drain line revealed a very bright fluorescence, so there is a leak in the evaporator compartment. I'll get an electronic leak detector before I try to narrow down where the leak is.
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
I fixed a drain line issue and the fluorescent dye in the drain line wasn't quite like the dye I put into the system. I'm now thinking that maybe the installers poured a little oil (with the dye mixed in) into the drain in order to prevent the drain trap from drying out. Given that the company replaces lots of A/Cs, I wouldn't be surprised if the oil they put into the drain line is what they drain out of old A/C equipment, which could have UV dye in it.
Since the electronic leak detector does not seem to indicate a leak in the evaporator and neither does the blacklight, maybe there isn't a leak in the evaporator compartment. I went outside to the condensing unit, unscrewed the caps off the service nipples, and carefully checked them with the electronic leak detector. It consistently indicated a leak on both nipples. Set the probe about 1/4" away from the nipple and the detector starts beeping.
So now it looks like time for a valve core tool and replacement valve cores...
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
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I had the same problem on mine a few years ago. There is a special tool (is the the one to which you refer?) that enables the Schraeder valve insert (just like the ones used on car & bike tires!) to be replaced without losing the system charge...just a FYI.
I have purchased some parts and tools today and I just replaced the valve cores. Now I'm pressure testing the system to check for any more leaks.
Should I clean the coil using compressed air? I'm thinking about getting a "backpack" style compressed air tank with a hose and nozzle so I can use it to clean other objects as well. If I use compressed air, what pressure should I use to effectively clean the coil but avoid bending the fins?
And why is it common for the supply stores to list higher than actual prices in the catalog? Wouldn't higher list prices turn customers away? Or are they trying to create the feeling that the items are always "on sale"?
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
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