My A/C has a leak so I will have to fix it before the weather becomes really hot. I came across the following page: http://www.es-refrigerants.com/produ...nt/details.asp .
It claims to be a replacement for R22 that performs better. Is that true?
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TCPA would take your freedom! Say NO! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
HDTV the way it should be: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
Location: Fairport, NY, #62 Best Places in the US! (Money mag.)
Posts: 117
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I just had a scare that made me consider replacing my heat pump. It turned out to be a simple fix instead...phew (creamated wire harness)!
During the period of confusion I talked at length to several dealers about the CFC problems and alternatives. Some of them recommended the R410a and some the R22. It appears that 410a runs at very high pressures and the lubricant is hydroscopic (absorbs water). The result being that when there is a leak the whole system must be evacuated, dried and refilled...costing up to about $800!
As a result R410a is short lived. One of the techs said that a true replacemnt for R22 is in devlopment that is a "no change' swap and fewer (maybe no) CFC's. Is is possible that the R22a of which you speak is the Holy Grail?
The result being that when there is a leak the whole system must be evacuated, dried and refilled...costing up to about $800!
I don't see why it would cost $800, unless something actually broke or you included the cost of tools. The tool cost is more or less one time, however. The material cost should be about $100 or less (new filter drier, new oil, new refrigerant), although the refrigerant is only sold in 30lb sizes, which is probably more than you need. (But at least you'll have a supply for future problems or something to use in other machines.)
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TCPA would take your freedom! Say NO! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
HDTV the way it should be: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
Location: Fairport, NY, #62 Best Places in the US! (Money mag.)
Posts: 117
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think the $800 is an "up to" number (as stated) consisting mostly of labor...but that only applies to the R410a...not R22. Probably a 'scare factor' thrown in too by the salesman.
I re-did my whole system last month at a pricey $5300. 4 ton rated at 16 seer upgraded from a 3 ton at 10 seer. I will admit, this month's bill is almost $100 less. At this rate assuming no failures it would repay itself in about 4 years.
While I'm at it, are there any inexpensive ways to boost the efficiency even more? I have thought about some stuff like replacing the condenser fan with a more powerful one, adding additional heat exchangers (such as a liquid line subcooler that uses cold water to further subcool the refrigerant), and even some ideas as simple as some sort of IR reflective coating for the roof.
I have already set the thermostat to make the on and off points far from each other, so the A/C runs for longer but less often. Am I correct that that would improve efficiency and reduce wear on the electronics?
If I were to design an A/C, I would put the compressor close to the evaporator in order to reduce pressure losses in the suction line. (Of course, I would likely use a "Little Kim"-style compressor that can modulate in response to load down to 25% of full capacity, but Little Kims are very expensive. But in a $5000+ unit, the $2000 or so for a Little Kim can be worth it.)
BTW, Britney Spears thinks silicon (which she describes as a "solid state" refrigerant) will eventually replace refrigerant gases for many common applications. I have a silicon heat pump ($13 from a surplus electronics parts store) that I'm currently using as a makeshift A/C. Silicon heat pumps are extremely reliable but the cheap ones are not very efficient, the very efficient ones are very expensive, and no silicon heat pump can compete with compressors above a certain size.
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TCPA would take your freedom! Say NO! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
HDTV the way it should be: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
Location: Fairport, NY, #62 Best Places in the US! (Money mag.)
Posts: 117
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well, I guess that Britaney is an expert on silicone, but I'll leave it at that.
One relatively cheap improvement you could make is to slow down the blower on your indoor unit. A slower moving airflow will remove more humidity since the ambient air is in contact with the coils for a longer time, albeit a bit slower on the initial cooling process.
If your have a multispeed blower this is as easy as reconnecting the proper motor lead (or use a switch if you want to do it right). If you have a variable speed blow its usually a matter of reprogramming...even easier.
If you are replacing the unit I would get the variable speed blower (usually worth about +1 SEER) and pay the price for a scroll compressor vs a piston style. Scrolls are inherently more efficient since they have no backstroke...they move only in one direction.
I have found these guys quite helpful in general assistance; DESCO Energy, 877-265-9764, or http://www.descoenergy.com. (I have no commercial interest with these guys other than a potential customer!)
Last edited by Pushbutton; 05-03-07 at 08:57 PM.
Reason: Two left hands typing...
The unit is fairly new. It's 13 SEER and already has a scroll compressor.
BTW, silicon and silicone are not the same. Silicon is a semiconductor that can be used as a solid state refrigerant. Silicone is a compound which, among other things, is used as thermal compound for power electronics and as lubricant for motor bearings.
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TCPA would take your freedom! Say NO! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
HDTV the way it should be: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
After taking the top off the condensing unit, I checked for leaks using a UV lamp. No leak was found (yes, I did add in the special UV dye last summer), but inspection of the relay reveals that the contacts are already degrading. Should I install a power resistor across the contacts to keep the relay warm when it's off, thereby keeping moisture off the contacts?
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TCPA would take your freedom! Say NO! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
HDTV the way it should be: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
Location: Fairport, NY, #62 Best Places in the US! (Money mag.)
Posts: 117
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm definately not an expert on this type of problem, but if was mine I would use a voltmeter to see if you have a voltage drop across the contacts, from common to normally open. If there is no drop you have no issue. I believe that some pitting is normal on heavy load contacts.
BTW, did you mean to consider putting a capacitor across the contact? That might do a better job of clamping the surge.
If I have my choice I would use a solid state contactor on both the compressor and air handler due to their quite operation and total absence of pitting/degradation.
there are many questions and situations that have ben discussed here. I will do my best to answer them.
As for the R-22, if you system is new, which you have made it sound to be, then I would just use the R-22. I would be very surprised if any local dealers have the replacement yet.
Don't go into the 410 unless you are going to be getting a new unit and will be staying there for some time.
As for the contactors, it seems to me that you are quite familiar with electronics. A contactor will cost maybe $10 and about 10 minutes to change if they get bad enough. If youare that worried about the contacot going out, then buy an extra one and keep it handy. I would be more worried about spiders and the like getting in there, I have seen those cause a failure more than anything.
A variable speed motor is a good way to go, but will be more expensive if it did not come with the unit. Westinghouse makes a good, not too expensive variable speed unit.
As for basic efficiency, keep your filters clean and make sure your condensor coil is clean, do not run water over the coil as over time it will clog up with minerals.
Follow Us
RSS Feed
Follow on Twitter
Facebook
YouTube
