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Old 06-18-05, 07:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Best way to paint a metal case?

I'm sure this thread has been up once or twice before but since methods may have changed I just want to make sure that this is truly the best way to paint a metal case before I try again. Here are the steps I'm looking at doing:

1) Thoroughly clean the case and then clean with denatured alcohol
2) Sand down the case with a heavy grit sandpaper
3) Clean case again
4) Prime the case with about 4-6 layers of primer paint
5) Wet sand the primer paint after allowing to dry
6) Spray paint with metallic flake (look I'm going for) with 5-7 layers with pauses of approximately 15 minutes between layers.
7) Allow to thoroughly dry and then get minor scratches out that may have occured with rubbing compound
8) Allow to dry a bit more and then do 3-4 layers of clear coat
9) Use polishing glaze to get a nice shine to the paint job

A few general questions I have that don't necessarily involve the above process.

1) Is there another case you would recommend doing this with than the RhinoSkin case? Last time I tried this it did not turn out well (I was impatient at the time since it was my only case) and I don't want it to happen again. Since I have another case for my Axim patience shouldn't be an issue this time around.

2) Are there any particular paints that you recommend brand wise or any particular types? Right now I'm thinking Krylon metallic flake enamels.

3) Are there any steps that I should add to my above outlined procedure?

Thanks for the help folks.

EDIT: Ooops I meant to put this in the general forum. Sorry about that would the mods please move this post?
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Old 06-18-05, 07:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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moved

I used to do car models that way. They were plastic though. I had a Candy Apple Red Astin-Martin. Never did get the ejection seat to work right though. ;)
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Old 06-18-05, 11:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NSAFreak
I'm sure this thread has been up once or twice before but since methods may have changed I just want to make sure that this is truly the best way to paint a metal case before I try again. Here are the steps I'm looking at doing:

1) Thoroughly clean the case and then clean with denatured alcohol
2) Sand down the case with a heavy grit sandpaper
3) Clean case again
4) Prime the case with about 4-6 layers of primer paint
5) Wet sand the primer paint after allowing to dry
6) Spray paint with metallic flake (look I'm going for) with 5-7 layers with pauses of approximately 15 minutes between layers.
7) Allow to thoroughly dry and then get minor scratches out that may have occured with rubbing compound
8) Allow to dry a bit more and then do 3-4 layers of clear coat
9) Use polishing glaze to get a nice shine to the paint job

A few general questions I have that don't necessarily involve the above process.

1) Is there another case you would recommend doing this with than the RhinoSkin case? Last time I tried this it did not turn out well (I was impatient at the time since it was my only case) and I don't want it to happen again. Since I have another case for my Axim patience shouldn't be an issue this time around.

2) Are there any particular paints that you recommend brand wise or any particular types? Right now I'm thinking Krylon metallic flake enamels.

3) Are there any steps that I should add to my above outlined procedure?

Thanks for the help folks.

EDIT: Ooops I meant to put this in the general forum. Sorry about that would the mods please move this post?

1) You don't need to clean with alchol if the next step is sanding.
2) Use a very fine grit paper and you dont need to sand down to bare metal. Just feather edge the scratches.
2)I coat of primer is enough , actually you don't need primer as case is aluminum. not cast.
3) Two coats of paint is plenty as the more coats added the more liklely it can scratch.
4)Only use clear coat if paint is a base coat type.(no shine).
5)Should be not scratch marks if inintial sanding is done properly.
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Old 06-18-05, 04:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Why would you paint a case? If you're putting that much work into it you may have too much time. A case is nice, but being with your family is better. I don't mean to offend, this is just my opinion.
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Old 06-18-05, 09:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by IAMDMC
Why would you paint a case? If you're putting that much work into it you may have too much time. A case is nice, but being with your family is better. I don't mean to offend, this is just my opinion.
I spend time with my family but since I'm 27 & don't have a family of my own (don't want one right now quite frankly) I have spare time for other times.
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Old 06-18-05, 10:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jmckeown
1) You don't need to clean with alchol if the next step is sanding.
2) Use a very fine grit paper and you dont need to sand down to bare metal. Just feather edge the scratches.
2)I coat of primer is enough , actually you don't need primer as case is aluminum. not cast.
3) Two coats of paint is plenty as the more coats added the more liklely it can scratch.
4)Only use clear coat if paint is a base coat type.(no shine).
5)Should be not scratch marks if inintial sanding is done properly.
I used to work in a body shop and took autobody repair in School. And a few notes:

1. You should clean the case even if your next step is sanding. If you don't clean first, sanding will only help embed any dirt particles deeper and your end result won't look as good.
2. You should sand down to bare metal. Mixing different paints and different finishes will re-act differently. Sanding to bare metal will ensure that no chemical reaction will occur. (although, I think the rhino-skin case does have a finish on it, it's just bare metal).
3. You should probably start with either 240 grit or 300 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper for sanding (wet sandpaper). Then work your way up grit wise. Probably stop at 400 grit wet sandpaper though. Then rinse thoroughly with water, and clean again with cleaning agent (alcohol is good enough for your purposes).
4. You should use an aluminum primer. It helps to promote adhesion between the different materials.
5. Always do several light coats paint/primer instead of fewer heavy coats.
6. After your clearcoat, you can use a light polish and buff it to a shine.

For your materials, I suggest going with automotive grade primer/paint/clearcoat. The overal shine and durability will be greater.
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Old 06-18-05, 10:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Perform steps 1-3 and then put the case in an oven.
Bring it to about 200 degrees and then spray paint it.
Return it to oven and bake for 30 more minutes.

Result is a super hard finish approaching powder coat in appearance.
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Old 06-18-05, 11:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gjw
Perform steps 1-3 and then put the case in an oven.
Bring it to about 200 degrees and then spray paint it.
Return it to oven and bake for 30 more minutes.

Result is a super hard finish approaching powder coat in appearance.
That sounds pretty cool, I've always liked the way powder coats look. But which 1-3 steps are you referring to in this post mine or another poster's?
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Old 06-19-05, 06:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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if you put it in the oven, make sure it's hanging off something. Otherwise you'll end up with grill marks!
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Old 06-19-05, 09:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Don't Panic!
I used to do car models that way. They were plastic though. I had a Candy Apple Red Astin-Martin. Never did get the ejection seat to work right though. ;)

You just needed a stronger spring.

I used to paint models similar to this way back when.
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Old 06-20-05, 09:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CRXGSR
if you put it in the oven, make sure it's hanging off something. Otherwise you'll end up with grill marks!
That's right!!

I'm not sure how a case would do in an oven however.

We do alot of powdercoating with products, and sometimes you don't know the outcome till it comes out of the oven.

Be careful if you go that route
:exc:
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