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Old 07-17-06, 04:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Dead x50v killed by orange juice!

MY x50v has taken a drink of thick fruit juice thru it's cf slot, which did not have its dummy plate in place. It initially booted (before I noticed the juice inside) but powered itself down and would not boot. I've taken it apart and cleaned out the juice which had not made it onto the M/B. It inially booted again but hard resetted during a charge, which it never recovered from.


It charges on the power cable still will not boot. I've tried leaving the battery out for 24hrs and checked the lock switch. Any more idea's to try and make it boot or POSTS i can try before declaring it dead?

Thanks

Paul
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Old 07-17-06, 07:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Oh man thats gotta hurt. I'd just toss it buy a new one and forget it ever happened. Good Luck.
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Old 07-17-06, 07:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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OJ got another one!

Try taking it appart and rinse in alcohol, let dry completely for a day or so. then try again
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Old 07-17-06, 09:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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hmmmm......

take it apart again.. leave it sitting for 24 hours without the battery and stuff, (try a hair dryer on the low heat setting). then, put it back together and try it again. not sure bout the alcohol... might corrode the connections. but i would try a VERY VERY lightly damp cloth. other than that, not sure what to do. try taking the screen off and the screen casing, and letting it dry that way.

if you cant get it working, sell it on ebay (for parts or all in one) you can get enuf money for a new x51.
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Old 07-19-06, 01:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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An update :

Got home from work and found the usual Windows Mobile start screen waiting for me. :) I had left it on charge for nearly 2 days as suggested on another thread.

Got past all the install screens and started to install Tomtom. Configured the Wifi connection and suddenly it powered down and won't restart

Hmm, maybe another cleanout is required with more alcohol (this fruit juice is nasty stuff). I think I'll persist a bit longer with it, whilst I wait for a replacement 2nd hand x50v to turn up from Ebay.
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Old 07-19-06, 03:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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okay, first of all, what kind of juice was it>?

update after trying what i suggested :) just try it :)

second, how far did you take it apart to dry and clean it?

nate
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Old 07-19-06, 04:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Others have had success with a disassembly, a gentle washing with distilled water (not tap, not bottled, DISTILLED), then a thorough drying time at warm, not hot, temperatures. Could take a couple of days to dry thoroughly. Sounds like some remnants of orange, or sugars, are intermittently shorting out some circuit. I'd recommend NOT using it until you can get it cleaner.
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Old 07-19-06, 06:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Nate,

It was a combo fruit juice of Orange, Pinapple, apple and grapefruit from a juicer

Teach me for being healthy!

I'll disassemble tomorrow night and give it a rub with some distilled water. The problem is,is this stuff is really sticky and difficult to remove. It seem's to have not made it past the cf slot though. I'll take a good look and update on progress.
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Old 07-19-06, 09:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't rub, just rinse and allow to drip, then allow it to air dry in a warm spot. You probably have sugar and pulp that leaked through and is shorting something. The water rinse should remove it. Remember, DISTILLED water--it has no minerals or chemicals in it to leave behind when it dries, just 100% pure H20. Once dry, if you have a can of compressed air, use that to blow away any remaing pulp debris that might have escaped the water rinse.

Be careful with the screen assembly--you don't want to get water under the screen. Unless you see sugar or pulp on it, I'd not rinse the screen assembly at all, just the mobo.
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Old 07-20-06, 10:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Please remember to disconnect the internal backup battery while doing all of this.
Much of the damage is done to dunked PDAs because of electro-chemical corrosion caused if the unit still has power applied to it through the normal or backup batteries.
That type of corrosion can eat right through the traces on a PC board in a matter of hours. Jake is correct, use distilled water only as you don't want any minerals in tap or bottled water on the PCB. When drying the unit, get a can of compressed air and blow out any liquid from under parts (You removed the shields, right?) and then use an electric hair dryer to dry it off. As long as you can hold the unit when drying it, you're OK.
DO NOT put it into ANY kind of oven, microwave or other, as you WILL kill the device.
Good luck!
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Old 07-20-06, 10:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by benots4
OJ got another one!

Try taking it appart and rinse in alcohol, let dry completely for a day or so. then try again.
Alcohol FYI is the only thing that mixes with water; i.e.: dry gas.
The water alcohol mix will then burn. Don't take a flame to the Ax.

How's bout a small airesol spray of "wire dry" available at electrical shops and, I think, the auto parts outlets.

I would certainly shed a tear or two. :waaa:
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Old 07-21-06, 01:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tankman
Alcohol FYI is the only thing that mixes with water; i.e.: dry gas.
The water alcohol mix will then burn. Don't take a flame to the Ax.

How's bout a small airesol spray of "wire dry" available at electrical shops and, I think, the auto parts outlets.

I would certainly shed a tear or two. :waaa:
Doesn't that wire dry stuff have light oil in it that displaces the water and coats the wires?
Best is a can of compressed 'air' to force out the liquid but all the shields have to be removed.
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Old 07-22-06, 11:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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you may even want to use glass WIPES (like windex). just let them dry a little until they are slightly damp. then use hair dryer on low heat setting
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Old 07-22-06, 12:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Why you want to ues Isopropyl Alcohol.

I am a military certified board solderer and we use isoproply alchohol to clean the boards. Here are a couple of reasons why its better than watter.

1) lower skin resistance - get a drop of water on a table top and see how big the bubble of watter can get. That is skin resistance. Try that with isopropyl alcohol and the bubble will be way shorter. This means that the alcohol can be used to remove watter from small areas, by reducing the skin effect. Alchohol will also get into smaller areas and pour out more completely from between smaller areas.

2) Isopropyl alchohol evaporates at a lower temperature. So it will dry faster than watter and will dry faster from small areas than watter.

3) Isopropyl alchohol (get the pure kind) will not leave watter marks on the pc board and will not corrode the electrical connections.

Use a short brissle brush and apply the achohol to the affected area. You can buy a solder cleaning brush at Radio Shack or just use a small stiff brissle brush. Scrub lightly and keep wet with alcohol. Rince and scrub lightly. Scrub enough to remove the material and no more. Scrubbing to hard or to long will remove traces coatings or even the traces themselves.

Rise with Alcohol and shake dry, actually long sweeping motions with your arms whilst holding the device in your hand for maximum air flow with a nice flip at the end to snap out as much alcohol as possible.

Drying - Best in an open oven on low. You want a dry heat arround 100 degrees F. Bake until dry. Don't wory about it bursting into flame. As long as you are not rediculus with the alcohol there is almost no little risk.
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Old 07-22-06, 12:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If it was me I would just run to Strauss Auto and got a can of contact cleaner. Since it actually cleans all the connections even from buildups and dry quick and fast. And also can go under places that regular alcohol will not.

Swamp everypart (Except the screen) and let it dry acordingly to its instructions.

Well..... Good Luck!
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