Nope - CCFL's haven't been used in PDAs for at least 4 years now. They all use white LEDs now for backlighting. I doubt any CCFLs have any amount of radioactive material as by law, that would have to be indicated on the label somewhere (regarding rpoper disposal) and I've never seen that in the 20 years I've been playing with toys like this.
Yup, I've been able to draw a pretty good arc from the CCFL supplies I've played with in the past. Not something you want to get your hand on when you turn on your device.
Originally Posted by star882
Carefully open the LCD assembly (the bulb is very fragile). If the bulb looks like a thin white glass rod, it's a CCFL. If it looks like a small piece of transparent plastic with metal inside it, it's a Luxeon.
BTW, I actually measured the voltage of a 2.5" CCFL bulb from an old thermostat. The voltage was actually around 250v operating. But measure it before the resonating capacitor and it's 700v! It's surprising how much voltage there is in an otherwise low voltage device. (Well, maybe not very surprising as there must be enough voltage to jump through and ionize nearly 2.5" of argon gas and mercury vapor! Some CCFLs also have an extremely tiny amount of radioactive material to ease starting.)
Wichtel,
you mean the ribbon isn't damaged ..? so the disconnected line is normal i guess.
you are suggesting a damage in the motherboard pins then .. ?
Ribbon cable pin on the right is damaged - corroded piece just at the top of the gold pin. Bridge that and clean the solder connection on the PCB adjacent to that pin (very carefully) and your LED backlight should work again.
Nope - CCFL's haven't been used in PDAs for at least 4 years now. They all use white LEDs now for backlighting. I doubt any CCFLs have any amount of radioactive material as by law, that would have to be indicated on the label somewhere (regarding rpoper disposal) and I've never seen that in the 20 years I've been playing with toys like this.
I've heard about the backlight inverter whining in some older Axims. Of course, that's from the X5 age so it's pretty old! IIRC, some X30s have whined as well but not mine. My guess is that some early X30s used CCFLs, but newer ones use small Luxeon LEDs. They used the "CCFL" style connector so no board changes are required.
Then again, I have noticed a Palm T5 whining quite audibly in a store. Then again, it could be an old display model that still has CCFLs.
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
ok,
If you zoom close enough into the first picture .. you can see the broken trace (first one on the right) in the ribbon, part of the gold is goine,
I am bugging bigbop about it .
guys and gals .. any advice on how to repaire the broken trace (how to solder .. etc), Star ..?!
Regards.
The good news: that broken wire happens to be wider so it should be easier to work with.
The bad news: "wide" is a relative term.
That said, just use a scalpel to scrape off the insulation right above the broken end. Then somehow reconnect the broken wire. The easiest way is to mask off the other wires with a piece of tape and bridge the gap with conductive ink. Or if you have a fine tip soldering iron, apply flux to both sides, apply a very tiny amount of solder to both sides (crush the solder with pliers and then carefully cut to get a very thin flake), then bridge with a piece of very thin wire (easiest way to get it is to take a piece of 22AWG or smaller (higher) stranded wire and use one strand).
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Originally Posted by A friend of mine who has a Linux kernel named after his girlfriend.
If I was VirtualBox, I could load my virtualization module into Hannah and boot up another kernel in the same address space.
I still can't believe imagine it worked,
YES, what started early last week as a non-responsive x50v, stuck in the calibration screen, busted backlight, ended last night as a fully functional WM5.0 birghtfull PDA.
I owe it to all to you guys and gals on aximsite, esp. bigbop and star882 : I wouldnt have been any where without you, not only at the thread here, but I have to admit they have thoughtfully answered every stupid question I've sent them privately as I was embarresed to show my extreem ignorance of basic electronics works on the thread.
yes, it turned out it was that last trace causing the problem and it took the following:
$1 precision knife.
$1 masking tape.
$10 rear defogger repair kit.
2 tooth picks ($1/box so virtually free)
use masking tape to cover everything but the broken trace also mask most of the golden connector so you will endup exposing as minimal area as possible of the ribbon.
now slightly scratch the copper wire with the knife tip, be very carefull and gentle, after little while you will notice the copper wire starting to shine (plastic removed) I pulled out my digital camera and took a picture then reviewed on my PC just to make sure everything is going as expected.
open the repair kit, shake well, open jar, use a tooth pick to steer throughly, use another one to gradually build the trace back, wait 1 minute between layers, make 3 layers, let it be for 1 hour.
put the axim together, .. press power .. I got a so messed up screen I was so sure that I've shorted something (although I didn't) and no backlight either I noticed that the unit has still kept memory content (good backup battery).
open up the axim again, remove the cable ... (what else can I do) .. double checked everything .. apply pencil eraser couple of time (just to make sure everything is clean)/
put the axim together again, power up, oh it seems that backup battery is out, OH OH its working, backlight screen working perfectly as the PDA is rebooting.
I am almost pretty sure that I did nothing the second time I opened the axim I think it just needed the hard reset.
Not sure how long will this last before the link breaks, but my guess (and hope) it will last for a while as the break is almost near the end of the ribbon so this part almost doesnt get bent at all, been doing lots of reading and it seems that the defogger solution is much effective cost/efficiency wise.
I do have pics of this (after peeling/after defogger) let me know if you want it posted here.
please execuse all the spelling mistakes too thrilled to run this into my spell checker.
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