no problems... i bought a used one on ebay after my last breakdown..... a few blips here and there, but no biggies... i think its because i no longer write on the screen w/ my stylus as much...
Location: PA (the only state referred to by it's abbreviated initials)
Posts: 233
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I still find a lot of my issues can be tracked down to software. I can't fully explain how or why, but I rarely have a problem with the "core" set of programs I use (which are actually pretty numerous). When I try experimenting with new software, if I find my alignment starts to go I can remove the software, re-align, and things are just fine.
And I'll go for months without having an alignment issue (until I start playing around with new software).
__________________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Location: PA (the only state referred to by it's abbreviated initials)
Posts: 233
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The alignment problems will happen with any program ... even just using WM. It's an application which is simply installed (whether it's running or not doesn't matter).
I suppose another way to see the problem is to hard reset and see if you have the alignment problems. I never do, until I start adding applications (not all of them ... just certain apps).
__________________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
it can... i believe it comes from overuse of the screen (or pressing too hard on the screen) so technically, it can happen with any one, just the x50 is the worst...
it doesnt make sense that they have a "screen alignment" program that doesn't adjust anything in the software. In essence, all it does (when working properly) is prove to the axim that you have decent hand-eye coordination.
The Absolute Latest Information on Fixing the Alignment Issue
Hello Everyone! This thread has been dead for a while, but just in case someone comes poking around looking for a solution to this epidemic, I thought I would share my experiences and lessons learned.
I was a victim of the alignment problem with a used and out-of-warranty x50, but by following the instructions listed by wesknox (post #170 and post #181), I was able to completely fix the issue. Here are the steps I took and what I learned.
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPEN YOUR DEVICE IF IT IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. YOUR WARRANTY WILL BE VOIDED. If you are experiencing alignment problems and your device is under warranty, there is little you can do except for cleaning around the edges of the screen (see first post).
1. Remove the battery, stylus, and any memory cards.
2. Remove the rubber feet (whatever they're called) that conceal the screws. There are FOUR feet with screws underneath. The one in the upper right corner has a white sticker over it (probably to identify tampering).
3. The screws use the Torx head (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx). The size is T5. If you do not have this type of driver, you can find it at your local hardware store (ACE Hardware worked for me). Be aware you might only find them in “bit” form (I'm such a hardware noob) that will attach to a magnetic screw driver. Remove the screws!
4. Remove the plastic cover. The case is made from two molds which split between the silver and black part. Do not tip the device upside down as the LCD is not fastened in. To be honest, this is the hard part and there are no tricks here. I found it easiest to start from the bottom and slowly work to the top while using a very small screw driver to pry (don't poke to deep). You WILL have to use force and the case will snap apart aggressively. Don't be afraid though; I'm just mentioning it so you know what to expect. This device is well designed and there aren’t going to be any springs or bits flying out at you. Just be careful and have patience.
Note: Before continuing, you may want to clean around the screen border since you have the opportunity. Some have reported this to help.
5. Once the device is opened, follow the advice by wesknox in post #181 to place padding over the white strips. I just used some Scotch wall mounting tabs (http://tinyurl.com/ywm9wc) lying around the house (they’re essentially foamy strips that are sticky on both sides). These worked perfectly. No bulge!
6. Carefully snap the cover back into place. (Be conscious of the microphone in the upper left corner; it has a snug hole it has to go back into.) Screw it together, put the feets back on, and have a beer (or a chocolate milk if you’re under 21).
That's it! You’re done. I must admit that this is the most a** backwards hack to fix this stupid problem, but it does seem to work.
This whole procedure may seem daunting, but it really wasn't that big of a deal, so don't be intimidated, especially if you have taken hardware apart before. This device is (or was...RIP Axim) a solid, well-built device and there isn't much that go wrong here. Plus, what do you have to lose? You have no warranty! Shame on you.
Well, I’m back to being a productive member of society again. It worked for me (for now at least) and I hope it will work for you too.
Best of luck,
Tom
P.S. Somebody better read this thing and appreciate it so I can at least get a little satisfaction out of writing such a well formed and conceived document!
Hello Everyone! This thread has been dead for a while, but just in case someone comes poking around looking for a solution to this epidemic, I thought I would share my experiences and lessons learned.
I was a victim of the alignment problem with a used and out-of-warranty x50, but by following the instructions listed by wesknox (post #170 and post #181), I was able to completely fix the issue. Here are the steps I took and what I learned.
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPEN YOUR DEVICE IF IT IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. YOUR WARRANTY WILL BE VOIDED. If you are experiencing alignment problems and your device is under warranty, there is little you can do except for cleaning around the edges of the screen (see first post).
1. Remove the battery, stylus, and any memory cards.
2. Remove the rubber feet (whatever they're called) that conceal the screws. There are FOUR feet with screws underneath. The one in the upper right corner has a white sticker over it (probably to identify tampering).
3. The screws use the Torx head (Torx - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia). The size is T5. If you do not have this type of driver, you can find it at your local hardware store (ACE Hardware worked for me). Be aware you might only find them in “bit” form (I'm such a hardware noob) that will attach to a magnetic screw driver. Remove the screws!
4. Remove the plastic cover. The case is made from two molds which split between the silver and black part. Do not tip the device upside down as the LCD is not fastened in. To be honest, this is the hard part and there are no tricks here. I found it easiest to start from the bottom and slowly work to the top while using a very small screw driver to pry (don't poke to deep). You WILL have to use force and the case will snap apart aggressively. Don't be afraid though; I'm just mentioning it so you know what to expect. This device is well designed and there aren’t going to be any springs or bits flying out at you. Just be careful and have patience.
Note: Before continuing, you may want to clean around the screen border since you have the opportunity. Some have reported this to help.
5. Once the device is opened, follow the advice by wesknox in post #181 to place padding over the white strips. I just used some Scotch wall mounting tabs (3M Mounting, Adhesives & Specialty Tapes : Scotch® Wall Mounting Tabs) lying around the house (they’re essentially foamy strips that are sticky on both sides). These worked perfectly. No bulge!
6. Carefully snap the cover back into place. (Be conscious of the microphone in the upper left corner; it has a snug hole it has to go back into.) Screw it together, put the feets back on, and have a beer (or a chocolate milk if you’re under 21).
That's it! You’re done. I must admit that this is the most a** backwards hack to fix this stupid problem, but it does seem to work.
This whole procedure may seem daunting, but it really wasn't that big of a deal, so don't be intimidated, especially if you have taken hardware apart before. This device is (or was...RIP Axim) a solid, well-built device and there isn't much that go wrong here. Plus, what do you have to lose? You have no warranty! Shame on you.
Well, I’m back to being a productive member of society again. It worked for me (for now at least) and I hope it will work for you too.
Best of luck,
Tom
P.S. Somebody better read this thing and appreciate it so I can at least get a little satisfaction out of writing such a well formed and conceived document!
Thanks a lot for the summary, and to the previous posts about this message. I just went through the process (which was easier than I expected) and now my screen alignment problems seemed to be fixed, at least for the moment. It was getting to seem pretty hopeless, so I'm ecstatic to have my x50v back to efficient working order. It hasn't worked this smoothly for almost 2 years.
Hello Everyone! This thread has been dead for a while, but just in case someone comes poking around looking for a solution to this epidemic, I thought I would share my experiences and lessons learned.
I was a victim of the alignment problem with a used and out-of-warranty x50, but by following the instructions listed by wesknox (post #170 and post #181), I was able to completely fix the issue. Here are the steps I took and what I learned.
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPEN YOUR DEVICE IF IT IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. YOUR WARRANTY WILL BE VOIDED. If you are experiencing alignment problems and your device is under warranty, there is little you can do except for cleaning around the edges of the screen (see first post).
1. Remove the battery, stylus, and any memory cards.
2. Remove the rubber feet (whatever they're called) that conceal the screws. There are FOUR feet with screws underneath. The one in the upper right corner has a white sticker over it (probably to identify tampering).
3. The screws use the Torx head (Torx - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia). The size is T5. If you do not have this type of driver, you can find it at your local hardware store (ACE Hardware worked for me). Be aware you might only find them in “bit” form (I'm such a hardware noob) that will attach to a magnetic screw driver. Remove the screws!
4. Remove the plastic cover. The case is made from two molds which split between the silver and black part. Do not tip the device upside down as the LCD is not fastened in. To be honest, this is the hard part and there are no tricks here. I found it easiest to start from the bottom and slowly work to the top while using a very small screw driver to pry (don't poke to deep). You WILL have to use force and the case will snap apart aggressively. Don't be afraid though; I'm just mentioning it so you know what to expect. This device is well designed and there aren’t going to be any springs or bits flying out at you. Just be careful and have patience.
Note: Before continuing, you may want to clean around the screen border since you have the opportunity. Some have reported this to help.
5. Once the device is opened, follow the advice by wesknox in post #181 to place padding over the white strips. I just used some Scotch wall mounting tabs (3M Mounting, Adhesives & Specialty Tapes : Scotch® Wall Mounting Tabs) lying around the house (they’re essentially foamy strips that are sticky on both sides). These worked perfectly. No bulge!
6. Carefully snap the cover back into place. (Be conscious of the microphone in the upper left corner; it has a snug hole it has to go back into.) Screw it together, put the feets back on, and have a beer (or a chocolate milk if you’re under 21).
That's it! You’re done. I must admit that this is the most a** backwards hack to fix this stupid problem, but it does seem to work.
This whole procedure may seem daunting, but it really wasn't that big of a deal, so don't be intimidated, especially if you have taken hardware apart before. This device is (or was...RIP Axim) a solid, well-built device and there isn't much that go wrong here. Plus, what do you have to lose? You have no warranty! Shame on you.
Well, I’m back to being a productive member of society again. It worked for me (for now at least) and I hope it will work for you too.
Best of luck,
Tom
P.S. Somebody better read this thing and appreciate it so I can at least get a little satisfaction out of writing such a well formed and conceived document!
I'm also going to attest to this method working, including using the 3M strips. I've only had it this way for a few days, but given that I could barely use the X50 for five minutes without needing to do a realignment and haven't done one since following the procedure, it's a definite plus.
I also went to my local Ace Hardware to get a T5 bit, and also picked up a set of the 3M strips - you do not have to buy the hooks. Total cost was about $5 or so for both the bit and the strips after tax.
Took apart my X50 per the instructions, and noticed several things:
1) Part of the "weatherstripping" on the face plate had delaminated, causing big chunks of it to stick to the digitizer screen.
2) There was a healthy amount of "weatherstripping" bits at the upper left of my screen, incidentally where I usually had the most trouble.
So, I cleaned up the screen with some of my Zeiss Lens Cloths (Wal-Mart or Sam's club has these) and let it dry.
I then went and cut small strips of the 3M tabs out and placed them all around the border of the screen. I put the "wall side" adhesive on the screen, and left the paper on the "hook side" of the tape. This is pretty important, as the wall side of the strips is meant to be easily removed, whereas the hook side has a stronger adhesive. You can easily peel off the strips should you need to in the future.
Put the case back on and lo and behold, the screen aligned on the 1st try. Went into draw and didn't see any of the "EKG" type of bumps that I used to.
Used the X50 over the weekend and had it in my coat pocket, around the house, and actually used it like I used to (I stopped doing this due to the screen issues). I haven't had it this responsive in a long time.
My theory is the following:
There is not a good enough seal between the digitizer and the face plate which causes lots of the seal to delaminate over time, and since some of that delaminate has adhesive on it, that causes dust and other particles to accumulate over time.
So hopefully the 3m strips on all four sides will erradicate this problem for me. I was all set to go buy a Nokia N810, but am going to get an EEE PC instead now since I can use my X50 as my "compact" internet device.
So i took the advice posted a few posts above this one and it worked fine for a couple days. Then it came back again. Does anyone know for sure if they purchase the digitizer new from PPC techs, will that fix it or will that eventually come back again? I read that someone was going to purchase it but i have not seen any progress post back. I have 2 x50v, one hardware version A01 which has problems and one with hardware version A06 which seems to be perfect. I was just wondering if its worth repairing it versus buying another one from eBay. I will be doing the RAM upgrade on the A06 one..
I also noticed that when i put the bigger battery on the A01 x50v, thats when the screen digitizer goes out of hand, possible the reasons described in this thread.
Thanks for the advice on the strips, it did help, but it came back again, which hardware version are you running?
Follow Us
RSS Feed
Follow on Twitter
Facebook
YouTube
The Absolute Latest Information on Fixing the Alignment Issue
I read that someone was going to purchase it but i have not seen any progress post back. I have 2 x50v, one hardware version A01 which has problems and one with hardware version A06 which seems to be perfect. I was just wondering if its worth repairing it versus buying another one from eBay. I will be doing the RAM upgrade on the A06 one..
