Advise please.... (out of warrantee repair options for x50v)
Ok, my sync/charge connector on my 1.5 year old x50v looks like it finally went. Just for the heck of it, I submitted a tech support ticket on the problem, and got these options:
1) Axim Out-Of-Warrantee exchange... for refurb x50v for $249.00.
2) Axim Out-Of-Warrantee exchange... for (new?) x51v for $329.00.
or my other options....
3) Open the Ax to see if I can fix loose connector (Anyone try this yet?)
4) Send it out for repair (PPCTech?)... at least $45 for diagnostic Service.
5) Forget the old one and buy a new Axim at deal prices.
The exchange prices are somewhat high. What do you think? Which option make more sense?
Previous PDAs: Palm M500, Toshiba e335, Axim X50v (run over by car To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. )
Well u might as well open it, just out of curiousity and your out of warrenty so go ahead.
Yup - if you know someone with a really fine tip soldering station (NOT a normal soldering iron) you can probably resolder the connector IF it was only the solder joints that cracked, which is probably what happened.
Just be VERY careful with the display and digitizer flex cables as you can tear them easily.
In fact, you won't have to disconect either of them, just pop off the button board to get at the connector. You WILL need a big magnifying glass or loupe to see the pins up close.
I was leaning toward openning the device, because I'm already out of warrantee. Basically I have nothing to lose. I thought the exchange prices were too close to the price of outright buying a new device.
I remember seeing a post with pictures of the inside of a x50v. Anyone know where I can get a hires pic of an inside view of the connector (hires so I can zoom in). Also, do I need a torx 6 or 5 screwdriver?
I opened mine a few times already.
1 to resoldered the headphone jack.
1 to see whatta heck is wrong with my touch screen.
1 to actually replaced the digitizer.
The connector, if that is the problem, should be an easy fix.
Hardware quality, it's a lot better now than Dell could ever dream of (same thing can be say to my V710- Motorola of course).
small phillip driver
T5 torx
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Ok, unless someone has already done so, I will document my try at fixing my connector port, and post the gory photos. Other than my sync/charge problems, I'm perfectly happy with my x50v with wm2003se. No need to spend the $300 bucks for an upgrade at this time. (unless i completely fry it during the operation.)
Update: I opened up the Axim with no problem, and found one definite pin and possibly 4 more pins disconnected from the main board. Look at the picture, the third one from the right is pushed back (now how did that happen). The four next to it look desoldered. I need to get someone with micro soldering skills to resolder them as this is beyond me. I'll keep you updated.
Anyone know what the pushed back pin is for? This picture is a view from the back, with the memory slots nearest you (Axim upside down). (Connector plug plugs in top of view).
When my digitilizer went south I sold the unit on ebay for parts, brought $104, I did open it up first to see if I could fix it, it was beyond my abilities and/or experience.
Then bought a new X50v on ebay, unopened with 2 years of extended warrantee left. I paid 244 for the new X50v. The seller even transferred the warrantee for me.
Take Care,
Jim
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Transferring the warranty isn't that hard. It takes around........ 30 seconds. But, back to the original question, I say that you should get a new x51.
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I would agree if I had the available $300 to go for a new PDA. Besides, I'd hate to dump a perfectly good PDA just because it can't charge or sync.
I did a close-up examination of the pins and found that practically all the pins on the right side are not making contact. I must have banged the sync cable at one time to cause so many pins to disconnect. I saw that because of the "L" shape of the pins, when I tilt the cable connector toward the rear, the pins touch the solder pads. Unfortunately, in its normal position the pins are slightly raised.
Can anyone suggest what I may be able to use to apply some pressure on the pins from the inside so they make contact. First thing to come to mind is a strip of heavy foam, like what they have in craft stores, to press down on the whole row of pins when the case is closed. What do you think?
For those still following this, I tried to push the pins down with foam strips (cut from sticky foam letters the kids had.) The theory I was working from is that the broken pins are slightly raised above the solder pad, and usually make contact when I tilt the connector plug forward (tilting forward makes the pins push back toward the pads.... like a seesaw.) I figure a strategically placed foam wedging the pins down would work. (See attached photo to see what I mean.)
The outcome....... failure. Contact has not been made. I however do notice it takes far less "tilting" to make a connection. The theory is sound, but the implementation is not.
Next up..... not sure. I see in Radio Shack they sell a "pen" that uses a metallic ink for writing traces and making jumpers on PC boards. If the pen tip is small enough, maybe that can be used instead of solder to make the contact. we'll see....