Yes, I'd concur, they need a thorough washing to remove the chlorine.
I'd start with truly deionised water, not distilled, but deionized, though I wouldn't
wait around more than a day to find it.
*then* submerge them in 100% pure isopropyl alcohol or any similar printed
circuit board washing solvent that can be used to clean post-soldering flux from
an assembled PCB. A good industrial (not radio shack or hobbyist) electronics
supply store should carry several spray-can as well as plastic-bottle circuitry
washing solvents which are probably mostly alcohol or TCE or some similar
easily vaporizing hydrocarbon or non-CFC-refrigerant type stuff.
A vigorous wash in the alcohol / solvent wash will clean up most of the minerals
and salts left in by the swimming pool, though a prior deionized water rinse
will help pull the salts better than the solvent, and the solvent will displace the
water and help get it clean and dry.
When you rinse (water as well as solvent) use several stages of rinse in
different tubs, e.g. the first rinse produces dirty water/solvent but a somewhat
cleaner PDA, but the solvent/water is too polluted still to clean fully, so transfer
them to a second stage rinse that's pure unused water/solvent, rinse to get the
devices even cleaner, then maybe a third stage rinse for final cleaning.
There's no inherent reason the water or alcohol / solvent will terribly hurt anything
in the devices, the problem is short circuits due to conductive dirt and salts and
impurities. Fully assembled electronics are almost 100% all pressure washed
in deionized water or some solder flux cleaning solvent / alcohol after they're
soldered before they assemble the cases onto them.
The touch-screen film and plastics in the LCD are the main things that could
suffer from some contamination or harm from water or solvents, the rest of the
things are pretty OK. The electret microphone guts may be hard to dry out and
might sound kinda funny or weak if it's still damp.
Unfortunately to really effectively clean the salts, though, it's really best to
disassemble the cases on the units so the DI water / flux cleaning solvent can
really effectively rinse the PCB components and so on, but unless you follow
pristine electrostatic discharge safety steps, grounding yourself with a wrist strap
that's 100% connected to a grounded pipe / ground prong on the AC outlet,
and working over a conductive foil / foam covered section of table, not rubbing
your feet on the carpet, etc. you may zap the naked components while handling
them if you disassemble the cases somewhat or fully.
Also if you do take off the cases, intricate tools / care may be needed or you could
strip the fine small screws or mar the casing etc. I've seen sites / links telling
you how to disassemble an Axim; I don't know about your CASIO.
At a minimum an eyeglasses repair kit if not a cheap watch / glasses / jewelry
repair kit of tiny screwdrives may be useful.
The disassembly pics for an Axim are here, though I think somewhere
there was a write up on HOW to disassemble it, and I'm not sure if that
was elsewhere.. I think it might be just some plainly visible screws and
maybe a couple under labels / warranty seal, though maybe there's more
tricky latches too..
http://handhelds.org/moin/moin.cgi/X50Pictures
http://pdasmart.zftp.com/instruction...ssembly_18.pdf
http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:...ient=firefox-a
http://www.pdasmart.com/aximpartscenterx50.htm
http://repair4pda.org/disassembly_dell.html
Anyway give it at least a day in a warm room / area to dry before you
expect it to work right, especially from a water soak, though the alcohol can
dry faster if you get enough on it to thoroughly dehydrate / replace the water
in most places.
Put it a foot under an 100W incandescent desk lamp or so where it'll be around
85F or so but nothing will get too hot as to melt maybe.